Summer temperatures have eased, and the days are getting shorter. Hurricane threats are lessening, and our beautiful waters are regaining their mesmerizing turquoise hue as algal blooms associated with summer heat dissipate. These occurrences can only mean one thing – we must be in November! The month is marked by one of the quintessential American holidays, which we as a nation have somewhat adopted for the celebration of its gastronomic pleasures. It is widely held that the first American Thanksgiving was a harvest feast shared by the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag people, an Indigenous North American Tribe, in 1621. The feast consisted of indigenous game, vegetables, and fruit of the Americas – turkey, cranberries, and pumpkin to name just a few.
Reflecting on Ancestral Botanical Gifts
Pondering this widely observed and historical meal that brought two different worlds together caused me to think of the botanical legacy our ancestors bequeathed to us. These crops have become an indelible part of our foodways and heritage, and the pride and gratitude I feel are almost palpable when I think about the crops they cultivated and passed down.
The Process of Artificial Selection
To illustrate the significance of this legacy, let us recall my article on artificial selection – the process by which humans domesticate wild plants over millennia, transforming them into sought-after palate-pleasers. All of the produce we purchase from markets and grocery stores today were once nondescript plants that had at least one desirable, edible characteristic that enticed humans to harvest and replant it year after year. With each harvest, the best of the crop would be selected and saved until, millennia later, we have a fruit or vegetable that is unrecognizable from its wild ancestor.
African Crops: A Rich Inheritance
Cereal crops domesticated in Africa by our forefathers include millet, African rice, and sorghum. Sorghum, once a staple in the Bahamian diet, is referenced in Ronnie Butler’s song “Burma Road” as “guinea corn, hominy and lard.” Sorghum, or guinea corn, is now prized for its high tolerance to heat and drought – crucial traits in the face of climate change.
Legumes domesticated by our ancestors include black-eyed peas, pigeon peas, and the lesser-known Bonavist Bean. Fruits such as tamarind, ackee, watermelon, muskmelon, and okra were also brought into our foodways. Sorrel, also known as roselle, is another African contribution, known globally by other names like “Flor de Jamaica” in Latin America.
The Transatlantic Journey of Ancestral Crops
The introduction of these crops to the New World was facilitated by our enslaved ancestors via the Transatlantic Slave Trade. European botanists and naturalists as early as the 17th century credit enslaved Africans with the knowledge and presence of these plants in the Americas. Stories also tell of how enslaved African women braided seeds into their hair for security on the treacherous journey across the seas, ensuring the survival of their foodways.
A Sense of Grief for the Lost Legacy
While I feel a profound sense of pride and gratitude, I also feel a slight sense of grief. I grieve the absence of these foods in the modern Bahamian diet. I grieve the lack of ancestral knowledge about plant species that could impact our current foodways, health, and agricultural industry. Instead of African crops like boiled yams or African spinach (callaloo), our diets now often favor substitutes like potato salad or iceberg lettuce.
Preserving and Reclaiming Our Heritage
As a nation, we must honor our ancestors’ botanical legacy, not only to us but to the world. School curricula and agricultural programs should include historical and practical instruction on these crops and their benefits. Students should be encouraged to grow diverse gardens and learn traditional preparation methods. Commercial and subsistence production of these crops should be reintroduced. Chefs should study traditional recipes and create new approaches to make these foods more accessible to modern palates. Rediscovering and reintroducing ancestral foods can provide valuable insight into our history, health, and culture.
With these steps, we can reclaim our heritage and gain a fuller sense of who we are as a people.
About One Eleuthera Foundation
Founded in 2012, One Eleuthera Foundation is a community-based non-profit organization dedicated to transforming our local island communities into thriving, self-sufficient ecosystems. We do this by focusing on five key areas: economic ownership, meaningful educational advancement, pathways to wellness, and environmentally sustainable communities centered around our island’s unique cultural identity. We run a number of social enterprises, including CTI, our vocational school; the Retreat Hotel, a training hotel for hospitality students; and our farm and Cooling House, which trains future farmers in the best sustainability and food production practices. Through OEF’s consistent dedicated efforts, the tenacity and resourcefulness of our legacy community, and the support of donors and partners, we are creating change in Eleuthera.
